Category: Articles

A HOUSE IN ASFENDIOU VILLAGE

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Forgotten in time but without losing its traditional flair, in contradiction to other villages on the island of Kos, Asfendiou lays on the Southeast side of the town, a place surrounded by olive trees, pine trees and firs, somewhere on mount Dikaios.

Wintertime is probably the best time of the year to explore the area; winter on the island is mild so the temperature is ideal for hiking to the top of the mount, plus the lack of tourists gives you the opportunity to enjoy the peaceful scenery and meet the locals. The locals will always greet you with a smile, without asking a lot of questions. In the beginning of our route, there was a small, picturesque house, visibly abandoned but still majestic. Its walls were still white, still fighting the mold. Its windows were wooden, with rusty bars and its door was narrow and quite old, trying to protect what was on the inside.

We got into the house and the feeling that this was actually an abandoned home, disappeared for a while. The sunglasses still laying on the wooden table, the family photos and the embroidered tablecloth, make you think that grandma is out to collect some olives and grandpa forgot his glasses when leaving. On my right side, I spotted more photos that unravel the close relationship of the family with the church. A big window in the center of the living room, sees to the big bedroom. The window right in the middle of the house, indicates that this also used to be a traditional kafenio (café). My friend told me that it used to be a cafe during the Italian occupation (1912-1943), before it was bought by Daniil Efstratios in 1946, as a proika (bride price) to his daughter, to become, a year later,  the family home we have just discovered.

We continued to the central room, where the Efstratios family used to welcome their friends and family to spend the afternoon together, as the locals used to say “aposperizo”. There, a small entrance leads to the second part of the house that was built at a later time and was used as a kitchen.

In this kitchen, someone can find useful everyday items from the times it used to be a house, and also kitchen appliances from a later era, since many generations grew up there, until it was completely abandoned in 1993. A very characteristic detail, is the huge bed with some patchwork kilts and pillows, also featuring a wooden ladder leading to the attic.

Closing the old door behind us, to start hiking to Metohi, a nearby area, we realized that we just had a small taste of the past life in the village of Asfendiou. A former traditional café that met the prime era of the region (during 1850-1940) and a home that was abandoned by its owners that had to leave their fatherland to work as economic migrants, in the 60’s, in Germany, Canada, Australia and the US.

Who knows…maybe this place will relive its past glory with the help of the new generation. In any case, its multiple lives will remain untacked, no matter the social changes…

KAYAKING TO THE ISLE OF DASIA

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Skopelos is a place that offers a great variety of outdoor activities. However, there are a few places that are not easy to reach without proper guidance. One of them is the isle of Dasia. Sea kayaking rental spots are available on the beaches of Milia, Neo Klima and Glossa, offering organized excursions. Check them out.

Excursions to Dasia are normally prohibited, especially without the supervision of a professional guide. The open sea hides many dangers due to strong winds and the crossing ferries and jet skis. We decided to reach Dasia with our kayaks, keeping in mind that this was a great risk, but on the other hand we were guided by someone who knew the route very well and we kept close to each other throughout this entire time (thanks to the bright colors of the canoes, it is wise to keep them in line and create a distinctive line in the sea for the crossing ferries to see).

Tip: It is allowed to kayak when the sea is calm and it is recommended to do it during morning and late afternoon hours, since the strong sun during the afternoon can be quite harmful, especially if you are not using UV protection.

The isle of Dasia is just 30 mins away from Milia beach, but only if you paddle with a quick pace. It is an evergreen haven, diving into the crystal clear waters of Northeast Aegean. While exploring it, you will find small caves and natural passages that lead to the opposite side of the isle; they are easily accessible via canoe. The place is uninhabited, its only residents are a dozen of snakes and some mice, so you better explore it by the sea!

One of the most impressive caves lays on the eastern side of the island. Its wide entrance makes it visible even from a certain distance, so it is not challenging to spot it. The cave features a little shore with gravel, but it is better if you approach it with your canoe, since the place is filled with sea urchins. However, if you wish to swim its shallow waters, you can do it with caution. Don’t forget to wear some protective shoes or flippers. If you are a daredevil, keep in mind that the cave is quite deep; you can actually see part of its long tunnel getting darker and darker.  

Entering and leaving the small cave can prove to be quite challenging, since the canoes are big and they tend to get stuck or turn upside down, so you might end up keeping company to the sea urchins! When leaving the cave, the water gets quite deep, but if you are wearing a life vest, you can safely swim to the natural passage which will lead you to the other side of the island, from where you can enjoy the view to Milia beach. The passage is short but very narrow, so if you don’t feel confident enough to explore it, you can always paddle around the isle before you return to shore. The longer route will take you around one and a half hour to finish. Our excursion came to an end right before sunset, the ideal time to enjoy the reddish sky and Dasia isle floating peacefully on the calm Aegean waters…

GRONINGEN: A JAZZ METROPOLIS

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The city of Groningen is the largest city of Northern Holland with 202.567 permanent residents. It is also considered to be the ideal “student city”, a place that invites you to get lost within its alleys, dance in jazz tunes and meet youngsters from all over the world. Its international flair and its vibrant nightlife made this place known as the Metropolis of the North!

Traveling across the Netherlands is quite easy. As a small country, most of its cities are within a short distance with each other (approximately 2 hours) and through various online pages, you can easily book your ticket for any destination you want. Once more, we neglected the fact that it was raining cats and dogs (better not expect a sunny day to travel!) and with a brief trip plan on a piece of paper, we hopped on the intercity train and within two hours and two trains, we reached our destination.

We reached the most central railway station of the city (there are three in total), called “Groningen” (the others are called “Groningen Europapark”, “Groningen Noord”) and at a first glance we saw many cars, some bus stops, a big canal with floating houses and in the background, some buildings of gothic architecture. As in most Dutch cities, cars are only allowed in certain areas, so we just happened to be around the city center. The safety of both cyclers and pedestrians comes always first.

Our first stop was the oldest University of the country, Groningen Rijksuniversiteit (aka RUG), found at one of the most central spots of the city (Broerstraat 5th). The town is so small and well-organized that you don’t even need a map or GPS to reach the city center. After several minutes walking past a canal (one of the many crossing the city), the shopping street of Grote Markt that resembles Ermou Street in Athens or a smaller Kartner Strasse in Vienna, we spotted the impressive building of the RUG.

A few info

  • The RUG was founded in 1614 and initially provided solely religious education.
  • It was the first University to accept a woman as a student, Aletta Jacobs. As well as this, notorious figures like the nobel prize winners Heike Kamerlingh Onnes and Ben Feringa, have studied here, as well as Wim Duisenberg, the first President of the European Central Bank.
  • It is ranked as one the 100 best Universities worldwide.

A jazz city

If you wander around the area, you will notice that Groningen is filled with cafeterias and bars. Most of these places organize events with live music, mainly jazz. It is worth visiting Jazzcafe de Spieghel (addr.Peperstraat).

The students of the music academy Prince Claus Conservatoire, often conduct jazz jam sessions around the city (eg. Peter Pan jazz café, Café de Smederij), offering a great spectacle to both visitors and the locals. This is why Groningen is one of the most popular destinations for music lovers, especially in January when the annual music festival Eurosonic Noordeslag is held, hosting numerous bands and artists from around Europe and always closes with local musicians.

Nightlife

Although it is a small town, it has a very lively nightlife, mainly thanks to its students. Streets like Grote Markt, Vismarkt, Poelestraat and Peperstraat, burst with life during the evenings, even on weekdays, and in contrast with most northern European cities, its bars remain open until 5 in the morning! Not by chance at all that for two years in a roll (2005-2007), Groningen was voted as the Best City of Holland!

For the Cycling Enthusiasts

To top the award of Best City in Holland, here comes the title of Worldwide Bike City, with 57% of its population using their bikes as their main means of transport. The city offers a well-organized cycling network that makes it quite easy to explore the surroundings. However, if you wish to rent a car, there is a good road network around the city center.

360ο view

The city of Groningen is known as the Metropolis of the North and as the Martinistad (the town of Martini), thanks to its historical attraction, a tower called Martinitoren (Martini Tower). From the top of the tower you have a 360ο view of the whole city. Apart from a monument, it is Groningen’s trademark and thanks to its height, you can spot it from every corner of the city. So, in case you are lost and want to return to the city center, just look up, I am sure you will spot the tower’s top!

Tip: Right next to the Martini Tower, there is a cozy café that resembles a traditional Dutch house. Ideal for cold rainy days!

For the Travelers

The most popular and affordable way to travel across the Netherlands is by train (NS Trein). With only two hours route from Amsterdam, you have no excuse not visit Groningen. From there, you can also travel to other places as well using the international bus line (go to Hamburg, Berlin, Munich by Flixbus, Postbus).

It was already late in the evening and the rooftops were soaking wet by the constant showers. We had to return back to Enschede. After a quick stop at the station’s café for a hot cup of coffee and a snack, we took the first train to Overijse. Groningen is a small town that has a lot to offer. Filled with café and bars, friendly locals and an artistic flair, this city invites you to be a Groninger yourself!

SOLO HIKING MOUNT CHORTIATIS

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Mount Chortiatis with maximum altitude 1,201 metres, lies in the Eastern part of the city of Thessaloniki and offers an amazing natural scenery to those who wish to explore its trails and hike up to the top “Keraies” (means antenas), to enjoy the panoramic view of Thermaikos gulf, Chalkidiki, Soho, Nigrita and the lakes of Agios Vasilios and Volvi!

With marked trails, easy routes (level B) and within a short distance from the city centre, it is the ideal destination for families with children, hikers and downhill enthusiasts (marked trails for bikers are available). Τhe Refuge of Chortiatis is open mainly on weekends and it’s usually the final stop of most hikers. However, it is strongly recommended that you hike to the top, even if it’s a bit challenging for a beginner, since it’s the most beautiful part of the entire route. The vegetation becomes thicker and the trails more uphill; for those who wish to challenge their limits, nature offers its beauty to the maximum! In the end, you will be able to enjoy the amazing view from the highest spot in the whole region.

Let’s start from scratch. Although it was a weekday, we decided to go hike the mount. In this way we would have the whole place to ourselves, skipping the numerous visitors during the weekends. During the week, even the refuge is closed, so if you are planning to explore the area then, keep in mind that you will probably be on your own! In this case, it is wise that you invite a friend or two, especially if you don’t know the area very well and always have a GPS app downloaded on your cellphone. Even though the trails of the mount are not on the map, the application will help you calculate the distance from the highway around Chortiatis or at least through the village itself.

The route is a bit challenging from the beginning, with small and big rocks on your way, so you should wear non-slip shoes. After a short uphill hike, you will find the first trail of the mountain, which is full of evergreen bushes, like kermes oaks, creating an impenetrable vegetation around the trail. At 700m. height you also meet oak trees and cedar trees.

Spring season, before June is ideal for excursions in nature, since even in midday, the temperature is mild and the sun gives a pleasant warm feeling to the hikers. Although Chortiatis Mount offers a variety of marked routes, you should be careful which trail you choose, because some are quite challenging and longer and some easier and shorter.  Unfortunately there are no signs whatsoever, so as a beginner, you will simply choose a route by chance and the more you hike the area, the more routes you will discover. Good news though, no matter which trail you choose, they all end up in valleys and small “oasis”, ideal for lunch breaks. This allows all hikers to rest in between, and hike the mountain at their own pace while enjoying the peaceful surroundings.

If you are a more experienced hiker, you can hike non-stop straight to the top, within two hours, but if you are not familiar with the surroundings, it is strongly recommended that you start your excursion early in the morning to have plenty of daylight during your route. Another reason you should start in the morning is that although the uphill route is relatively easy, the downhill route is a bit challenging. If you hike during the weekend, the refuge is always open, so there is always the choice to leave with other hikers or spend the night at one of their cozy rooms.The higher we hike, the thicker the vegetation becomes, with a variety of deciduous trees, like chestnut tree, ash tree, oak tree, as well as clinging plants and  spring flowers like geranium, orchid etc.

Even during summer season, it can get quite chilly up there, so I suggest you take a waterproof jacket with you, because as the altitude gets higher, the temperatures drop dramatically.

The trail to the top is reached within a short walking distance from the Refuge and it ends up to the top “Keraies”; the trail is not marked since it is the only one leading to the top.

Tip: When you reach the central road leading to Keraies, you will meet a small crossroad. Go left.

This last part of our route happens to be the most beautiful (850-1200m.). You will meet a fairytale scenery, a forest of beech trees, cyclamen flowers, geraniums, lilies, violas, buttercups… It is worth mentioning that there is a big variety of mushrooms but not all of them are edible so be cautious. After 15-20 mins walking, at the final stage of our hiking, the road is more accessible and flat, the sun is hard and big and the view takes your breath away! The spot is ideal for picnic or sunbathing. If you happen to be a biker than you should know that even up there, you will find marked trails for cyclers.

A little throwback here. Back in the day, the area used to have rich fauna, like wolves and wild boars but to this day, their population has been dramatically reduced due to illegal hunting. If you respect the surrounding area and keep quiet, you might see squirrels, rabbits and plenty of lizards. Hunting is strictly prohibited and there are signs around the area clearly indicating that.

Tip: As I mentioned above, your return may be a bit challenging, so it is strongly recommended that you take a baton with you and as weird as it sounds, don’t forget to cut your toe nails; the continuous downhill route can be quite painful for your feet. Last but not least, always check the weather forecast beforehand.

If you’re keen on exploring this small treasure of Northern Greece and wish to enjoy the beautiful scenery through your own eyes, then follow these tips, grab your backpack and hike the evergreen trails of mount Chortiatis!

EASTER IN HALKI ISLAND OF MARMARA

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Halki, also known as Heybeliada. A small, evergreen island that lies in Marmara sea and between Antigoni island (Burgazada) and Pringipos (Buyukada), as well as Maltepe cape. Such a small isle with such long history. A place where you can smell the salty air everywhere…from the wooden cottage houses from a past era, to the monastery of the Holy Trinity at the northern part of the island, one of the main sites  built in the 11th century.

We took a long weekend due to Easter holidays and we decided to take the local ferry to the famous Princess islands and get away from the beautiful chaos of the city of Istanbul. Our starting point was the port of Beşiktaş where we enjoyed a hot cup of demlik çay – strong flavored Turkish tea. As soon as we arrived at the sunny port of Halki, we saw a bunch of taverns in line filled with spicy aromas and flavors, seagulls making long dives into the waters of Bosphorus to catch some fish, and a few people, mainly locals, strolling around… It was like a summer day!

We started walking up the hill to our hostel named L’isola, where we managed to book a room literally at the last moment and at a very good price due to low season. Only five minutes walking distance from the central port, we arrived at this little guesthouse with the cute garden with flowers and green grass and many, many cats. Koral, the owner of L’isola informed us that the building used to be the house of a Greek man that aspired to make the first Bauhaus building of the island but had to leave, along with many other Greeks who used to live in Turkey, back in the great persecution in 1964. After being in the hands of locals for many years, it was eventually bought by Koral who managed to preserve its original beauty and bring its past to life. Our room was cozy and clean with a great view to the sea of Marmara and the town of Halki.

Hiking to the Halki Seminary

The maximum altitude of the island reaches 448 feet, so it is quite easy for someone to hike its hills, no matter their age or their physical condition. The Halki Seminary has no students nowadays, but it is still preserved in a perfect condition thanks to the orthodox Patriarchate, that often organizes events for the locals as well as the visitors. If you manage to visit its premises, which I strongly recommend, you will see a small church of the Holy Trinity and a huge evergreen garden filled with lilacs, tulips and trees. Even if you don’t care about the religious part of this site, it is worth hiking the route to the seminary and enjoy the breathtaking view to the sea of Marmara, the aromas from the flowers and the pinetrees and the singing of the numerous birds. It is certainly an excursion that will satisfy the most rigorous hiker.

After spending quite some time enjoying the warmth of the sun and the sea breeze, we decided to explore the seaside hoping to find a beach to sunbathe and why not…swim! Unfortunately we were not very lucky. Although the island used to have amazing open beaches in the past, most of them were sold to private owners.

However, Halki is the ideal place for various activities, such as trekking, hiking, cycling, all enjoyed with safety since all cars and vehicles are prohibited. Another means of transportation are the horse carriages, mainly used as a tourist attraction. Luckily they are only a few, compared to the ones in the island of Pringipos. There have been many clashes between animal welfare organizations and the locals that profit from that…let’s say…tradition, since the living conditions of the poor horses, are not good.

Celebrating Easter all together

During winter time, the permanent residents are about 3.000, mainly Turkish but also some Greek – known as Romioi– that live on the island all year long or own a cottage house for the weekends and holidays. Easter is a weekend of celebrations for the few Greeks, Russians but for many Turkish locals as well. In opposition to what Mass Media promote, Turkish and Greeks live harmonically with each other here in Turkey, they share their ethics and traditions with mutual respect and love.

Ιn the night of the Resurrection, right before midnight, we all gathered at the little church of Saint George, located at the edge of a rocky hill. Only a few people, some Greek tourists, some Russians, Turkish and Romioi, all together. Isn’t that the purpose of these days after all? I still remember the whole moon that night combined with the flame of the candles. Throughout the night, I was talking with Mustafa, a permanent resident of the island, that visits the church of Saint George every single year to bring the holy light back home (a christian tradition). Like most Greeks, he also believes that this will bring him good luck and health.

“All of us, no matter of what religion, we all believe in the same God” he says.

Sunday Easter at the Halki Seminary

The next morning, around 9 o’clock, we started hiking to the Halki Seminary to listen to the church choir, sang in all languages as a tribute to unity and love. From Greek to English and from Arabic to Azeri and so on. After the choir, the local priest gave to all of us a red egg, decorated with tulle.

A huge feast was taking place in the garden of the seminary. Tables filled with tasty dishes, Greek folklore music and children running up and down playing with the farm animals. I really enjoyed the oven potatoes, the fresh green salad and the fruity red wine. The buffet was rich with local delicacies.

It was a weekend filled with aromas, nostalgic moments, wonderful people and connection with local traditions. The social and political upheaval in Turkey lately, has prevented many tourists from visiting this wonderful country, but reality stands far from the front pages.

Especially the Princess islands, they stand still in time, so close to the city of Istanbul but so distant at the same time. Ready to unfold a parallel world where people co- exist, respecting the past while creating their own present and future, day by day…

HIKING MOUNT PAGGAIO

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The mount of Paggaio lies between the cities of Kavala and Serres. With about 1,956 meters height, a great variety of deciduous and evergreen trees and small rivers, it is the ideal destination for nature enthusiasts at beginner or intermediate level (level B).

Spring is the best time of the year for outdoor activities; the winter snow loses the battle to small, colorful flowers and most days are sunny with ideal temperatures for hiking. Although this winter- especially in Northern Greece- was quite heavy and spring made a late appearance, the view from spot “Denna” at 1,150 meters as well as the top of the mountain, called “Mati” (def.eye) is definitely a highlight.

If your starting point is the city of Thessaloniki, you will need a two hour drive to reach the monastery of Oikosifinissa, located at the foothills of Paggaio. We started our route at 7 am along with the Trace Your Eco team that provided two buses for our trip. The monastery opened its doors in 450 B.C and it is located at 753 meters height. Apart from being a historical site, it also attracts tourists for religious purposes. Its presence in combination with the fog and the psalms from the 23 nuns, create a rather spooky scenery.

After a while, we started hiking towards the spot “Denna” and after a small break to enjoy the view, we would visit the village of Nikisiani. The overall route’s duration is about 5.30 hours, mainly upward and during this season, a bit challenging, due to small pieces of eyes and slippery leaves. In the beginning, someone can only see dry trees and small Anchusa flowers making their first appearance. But soon enough, evergreen tall trees and firs are all around, creating a scenery straight from Enid Blyton’s tales.

The team of hikers was advanced, walking with a fast pace. After only an hour, we had already reached spot “Denna” where we took a break for a quick snack while enjoying the snowy tops in the horizon and with a panoramic view to the village of Nikisiani.

This brief stop was long enough to help us regain the strength for more hiking. Our main goal was to explore the NorthEast part of mount Paggaio, and eventually reach the village of Nikisiani at 350 meters height. Someone would expect that walking downwards would be easier but the remains of ice and the thick layers of wet leaves, made our route a bit challenging and full of trips!

Tip: Don’t forget to wear strong hiking or non-slip shoes if you wish to reduce the level of difficulty. A thick tree branch could work as a hiking stick for more support.

Some areas require extreme caution, since most trails are very narrow. It is recommended that all hikers walk in a straight line for their own safety. Our downhill route lasted a bit longer than expected because of the aforementioned small challenges and around 14.00 o’clock, we arrived at the village of Nikisiani.

It’s not easy to describe this place with a single word, because it’s a mixture of folklore and modern. On the one hand, picturesque alleys with small houses featuring windows with pots of flowers and embroidered curtains and on the other hand, modern, luxurious buildings. In the streets you could see, expensive jeeps and youngsters conducting tricks with their motorbikes trying to impress us newbies, but you could also see horsemen and farmers.

The central square had only two, three taverns, a small hostel, closed shops and local people.

We chose a small tavern called “Spilia” (def.cave). Although the service was a bit slow, probably because they usually don’t expect so many people, they offered tasty and quality cuisine. After a filling meal, we started roaming the empty streets, observing the few locals doing their daily activities. An old farmer gave us a suspicious look while doing his gardening and an old lady, doing her laundry, nodded to us with a friendly smile.

Unfortunately, we had to return back to the busy city…We once again took the buses of Trace Your Eco for the trip back home. Most of us fell asleep in the bus, relaxed by the pure oxygen and the long hours of hiking. 19.30, the fields become stores and the birds’ singing is now covered by the noise of someone’s car, rushing to reach his destination…

JUST A FLANEUR IN AMSTERDAM

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Amsterdam, the cultural center of the Netherlands and the ideal place to be for many and for different reasons: picturesque alleys, interesting architecture (e.g Dutch Golden Age), international flair, legal marijuana, vibrant nightlife…and the list never ends!

You should stay for at least a week if you want to wander around the narrow alleys like a flâneur, cross its tiny bridges and discover all the hidden treasures, usually difficult to notice at a quick glance. This journal mentions only a few highlights…rain, wandering around, cheap but tasty lunch (don’t forget to try the traditional erwtensoep or snert, soup made out of peas and sausage), sightseeings, vivid corners and a variety of colorful images…

A loggia filled with old books and vinyls…
Those little discoveries that happen by accident are the most exciting sometimes. An old loggia, right in the heart of the city, houses a flea market of old books and vinyls. Although most books were written in Dutch, so there was not a big variety of choices for foreigners, it was one of the most unique experiences of my trip. A trumpet lies next to a Bob Dylan vinyl and right next to Edith Piaf and Bach; music knows no borders or eras. To the left, two male figures: one is rolling his cigar and enjoys his coffee using a glass of beer (!) and the other is hiding behind his newspaper. Both gave me the impression that they were, in fact, trying to avoid any visitors. This peaceful and quiet loggia, a parallel world in complete contrast to the city center bursting with people.

That embroidered sweater…

“Here comes the sun”! After a couple of hours of heavy rain that led me to the nearest second hand/ vintage shop (check out Vintage Shops Amsterdam) ,to buy a warm embroidered sweater, the sun made its debut. Sometimes rain covers the city with a veil of romance and sweet melancholy but without a doubt, the sun enhances the vibrant color palette of Amsterdam. Surrounded by the warmth of my new sweater, I enjoyed my hot cup of coffee right next to the Staalmeestersbrug bridge and a reddish-brown sleeping cat.

Grab a beer…

Many would say that after sunset, Amsterdam comes to life. I say that this city never sleeps. I wandered as much as I could around the central city market, but then I felt like exploring some distant hoods. One of my stops was the Heineken Experience museum, that used to be an actual brewery, but nowadays it offers interactive tours in the Heineken premises that lead to a tasting room.

Outside the museum, the city lights and the elegant vitro, set the mood for the upcoming holidays.

Not just a monument…

Christofer Wren once said that “Architecture aims at eternity” and that is exactly what I am thinking every time I see the impοsing Magna Plaza, the most well – known shopping center of the city, which also happens to be a monument of great importance and value. It also lies right behind the Royal Palace of Amsterdam. One thing you should check off your to-do list, is to drink a hot cup of coffee at the top floor of this neo-gothic building, at a cafeteria that offers spectacular views.

Even if you don’t wish to become part of the city, it is worth becoming a simple spectator of its bustling, bohemian life. Even for one day…

ENSCHEDE, A LOW BUDGET GUIDE

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Windmills, Gouda cheese, tulips, canals, coffee shops, Amstel brewery; these are probably the most common answers someone could give when asked to describe Holland. At a first glance yes, the aforementioned are a trademark of the Low Lands, but in reality, there is so much more than meets the eye. Apart from the most popular Dutch destinations, there are small towns near Amsterdam, ready to be explored without having to spend a fortune. At one of these towns, I had the chance to spend almost a month, with a low budget of course, so I decided to collect my notes and share them with those who believe that a true traveler is anyone who explores places that are not displayed on magazine covers. Let’s meet the city of Enschede!

A gothic student town that may not have an airport, but it is still easily accessible by train from the Schiphol airport in Amsterdam. The intercity train premises are located inside the airport and the route is exactly two hours. Tip: It is recommended that you book your ticket a couple of days prior and have it printed on the train.

A relatively small town, with 100.000 residents but the lifestyle of a small village, it preserves its vibrant essence thanks to the international students that arrive on an annual basis, from all over the world. The city center features picturesque buildings, most of them built during B’ World War, since Enschede was completely destroyed during the German raid. The only buildings of gothic rhythm that survived the invasion are the churches of the town, two of them located in Oude Markt, the most central square of the area that gathers all the youngsters thanks to its numerous café-bistro and bars.

Accessible Art

Buurtkamer De Vleeschhouwerij: For museum and exhibition enthusiasts that can’t afford or don’t wish to pay an entrance fee, the Buurtkamer De Vleeschhouwerij museum is the ideal choice. A former butcher shop that reopened in 2011 and exhibits items and furniture that survived the invasion of B’ World War. In addition, someone can also admire pieces of local artists that regularly change.

Creatief Atelier Twente: Α unique gallery that exhibits art by disabled students, located in the University of Twente. The entrance to the gallery is free of charge and someone has the chance to observe the artists on act, especially during morning hours.

Having a good lunch or enjoy a drink is a must even for low budget travelers. Life in smaller towns around Amsterdam, offer a cheaper lifestyle and maybe this is why so many students choose to study in cities like Enschede. The following suggestions are indicative and are based on the good quality combined with affordable prices (value for money).

 Happy Italy: Authentic, Italian cuisine in a pleasant, youthful environment, right in the city center. A grande pizza only costs 4 – 6,5 euros!

Soestdijk Grand Café: The ideal spot for afternoon coffee or  drink. Vintage atmosphere, excellent service and of course, low prices! Two double cappuccino with a Baileys shot as a special treat, only for 4 euros and a cold glass of beer for only 2 euros.

Flea Market Langestraat: At the most central place of the town, where all locals meet for their daily shopping, a big flea market is set every weekend and on holidays, where you can literally find everything: local cheese, warm donuts, alcoholic drinks and beverages, freshly squeezed juice and so on. If you happen to wander around the market, you will find second hand clothes and accessories. If you wish to feel like a local and enjoy local delicacies, you should definitely pay a visit!

For Nature Lovers…

Netherlands, the country of cyclists- not by chance- with well – organized trails, streets and wonderful nature that offers extraordinary views during the year. If you are a cycling or trekking enthusiast then Enschede is the perfect place for you! Someone can choose between the three biggest parks: Abraham Ledeboerpark, Volkspark and Wesselerbrinkpark, open 24 hours a day and suitable for various activities for all seasons. A quite popular choice is the campus of the University of Twente. Full of small rivers, lakes, deciduous and evergreen trees, chickens, flamingos and other animals, it is the ideal place for jogging, cycling or trekking. The campus also has a cafeteria for some relaxing moments after a long walk in nature.

Enschede is a town that someone can easily feel familiar with. The picturesque streets, the nature itself creating a fairytale landscape and friendly and polite locals, are going to make you love this place from the first moment. So close to Amsterdam and with affordable transportation, you have no excuse!

Also published at Parallaxi Magazine

SARY THE NOMAD MUSICIAN

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I met Sary by accident, while he was playing the piano, lost in sufi melodies, in the middle of the most bustling avenue in Thessaloniki. What made an impression on me, was the antithesis between his image and his music: a guy with the appearance of a yogi, plays sufi music on a classic, old piano in a small van, parked in front of designers’ shops.

During the last few years, he has chosen a nomadic life as his own reality. His home is a van, where he moved all his belongings when he decided to leave London. Since then, street music is his only source of income, through which he puts a message across. Mystic philosopher George Gurdjieff has been a major influence to Sary’s art, since he is only performing songs composed by him.

Before he left London to begin his long journey, he used to work as a carpenter, but he eventually chose the life of a peripatetic musician, who shares his music with the world, while searching for his own purpose of existence. It was not challenging to approach him and create a brief image. On the contrary, he is very friendly and open once he realizes you are truly interested in his story. With a great sea view and two cans of beer, he began his story.

A new beginning…

Sary never had a luxurius life, so it was quite easy for him to refuse his conventional lifestyle. At the mature age of 30, he first listened to Gurdjieff’s music and instantly burst into tears, without being able to explain why.He decided to buy a second-hand piano and some scores and without having any musical education, he literally started learning from scratch. After a certain period of time and a lot of effort and patience, he made it. When he started playing music in the streets of London, he was not satisfied by the kind of attention he was receiving.

Many people would stop just to listen to the music or take a photo of me, but they were never really interested in the purpose of my performance

It was a day like all other days, when he decided that music could no longer be a parallel occupation. It had to be his mission. With no specific plans on how he will sustain himself, which places he would visit and where he would end up, he decided to leave his ordinary life to become a traveler.

London-Thessaloniki

During his journey, he passed through many European cities but he never stayed for more than three days. He distinguishes that moment though, when he met some musicians in Croatia, with whom he organised a musical event. He also talks about his trip to Germany where he stayed with locals thanks to couch surfing program and created genuine friendships.

Thessaloniki was never pinned in his map of destinations, till a warm September day when he first parked his van near the seaside. It has already been a year since he started living on his music and some DIY woodwork he gives to a local shop. Despite his nomadic lifestyle he does not wish to live on the margin. Apart from his daily activities, he decided to join the Refugee Solidarity campaign of Thessaloniki-Idomeni, in order to help those in need. He asks me if I have ever been at a refugee camp.

If you have never been in such a place, you have no idea how these people live. Even a cup of hot tea can be a great comfort. Thanks to my Egyptian origins, I know how they prefer to drink their tea…

He has offered a helping hand, yet he has received many as well. He rarely accepts any assistance, since he is satisfied if someone simply cares about his personal journey and shows sympathy. Not everyone does that though. For the majority, he is just another homeless person and he is often treated as a misfit.

Choosing Sustainability…

Sary has spent his latest years in a van, without any heating or electricity source. He uses a night lantern when it is dark, he has neither a laptop nor a cellphone. He used to  have a tablet in his first travels but he soon gave it away. To my surprise though, he has a personal facebook account and a website, on which he promotes his handmade furniture and decoratives from recycled pallets and whenever he wants, he simply visits an internet cafe.

I am using technology only for professional purposes. Humanity faces a major problem. Our mind is weak, lost in Facebook, cell phones and technology in general

Choosing sustainability is not an easy choice. Last winter, he experienced one of the biggest challenges so far.

You face many difficulties while living in a van made of steel, with no heating. During winter and summer season, I am immediately affected by the external conditions.Last winter, even in the city centre, the temperature was not above -5 °C. At some point, when I thought I reached my limits, I started the van and drove to mount Olympus where the temperature was nearly -30 °C ! I spent the night there and the next day, I returned to the city. 

He then explains that he exposed himself to the extreme conditions of mount Olympus, in order to be able to handle the temperatures in the city centre- clearly influenced by the Eastern philosophical statement that a man should submit himself to the – so called- “willing suffering”. 

But how can someone sustain himself, while living in the city and without a job? It is impossible to succeed full autonomy when you don’t cultivate your own food.

I earn money through street music. My hat is on the sidewalk, I am inside the van lost in my music, so I have completely separated myself from the working process. I would like to own a carpentry and have tools to create woodwork again.

He shows me a piece of his personal collection, which he made with DIY tools. It looks like a human heart. Without his own workshop, he has no other choice than using disposed pallets as raw material for the furniture he makes. Apart from using one single material for all his creations, he considers his woodwork, eco-art, since he transforms someone’s trash into another’s furniture.

Before we say goodbye , I ask him what his next plans are. He has no idea when he will leave Thessaloniki, but his final destination is Egypt where his younger brother is expecting him.Together, they will travel to Mount Kilimanjaro.

Sary is the kind of person who chooses an irregular life in an everlasting society of consumerism. He is one of those, who despite the challenges, chooses his own true path, without expecting society’s approval. His story reminds me of Mark Boyle , founder of Freeconomy Movement and former economist, who refused his regular lifestyle to conduct a “moneyless”, one-year experiment. In his first book The Moneyless Man , where he records his travelogue, he says the following:

“It is possible to be extremely happy, despite having little money and being officially categorised as poverty-striken. You can also be really unhappy despite earning a high salaty. Those who always want something more, will always live in poverty, regardless of how much they earn, while those who are content with what they have, will always feel they have an abundance”

Also published in Greek on: Parallaximag

THESSALONICAN: LIVE THE CITY LIKE A LOCAL

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ThessaloniCan; what does it mean, really? ThessaloniCan is a traveler that wishes and now can (!) experience the city of Thessaloniki like a local!

Let’s start from scratch. A month ago, I had the pleasure to work with people full of new ideas, positive attitude and passion for life and traveling, at one of the numerous seminars conducted under the aegis of “Kostis Palamas” educational program at Aristotle University of Thessaloniki. The program was created for lifelong learners with no age limit. Our main subject was Travel Journalism and Reporting. After several days of discussing, exchanging opinions and ideas, we put our project into practice, for travelers who wish to have a low-budget city break, 365 days a year…like a local! In a few words, you can design your own vacation. Each and everyone of us, presented a story about Thessaloniki, to all those who strive to experience its urban landscape through its aromas and its people. Plan your booking, prepare your backpack and hop on the first plane!

Your arrival is a fact! Use one of the public shuttles available at the airport entrance to reach the city center within a few minutes. Check-in your hotel and have some rest because a long day lies ahead.

YMCA: The building of YMCA is located right in the city center, making it quite easy to explore the surrounding area. The White Tower is just a five minute walk away, Tsimiski avenue is right in front of the YMCA premises, in case you want to grab a bite or go shopping, and only a few meters away are the University, the OTE Tower and Vasilissis Olgas avenue. If you visit the city during summertime, check out the daily schedule of the Garden Theatre (Theatro Kipou) and stroll around the evergreen park that hosts two lovely cafes.

Tsimiski Avenue: If you feel like going for shopping, drink a cup of coffee or enjoy a quick snack, go to Tsimiski avenue or Mitropoleos Street, for traditional “bugatsa” at “Yannis” shop, with a variety of fillings, such as chocolate, minced meat or vanilla cream! It’s also worth visiting the oldest and most historic bookshop of the city, “Loksias” at Isayron Street. However, if you are still tired from traveling, you can simply hop on any bus passing by Tsimiski and go to Aristotelous square.

Aristotelous Square: Starting from the seaside (Thermaikos) and ending at Egnatia street, not only is it considered the biggest square of the city, but one of the most dominant in the whole country. Its final form was designed right after the big fire in 1917, by the French architect Ernest Hébrard, but its biggest part was actually built in 1950. The spot offers a lot of options like cafes for coffee or brunch for all tastes and budgets. If you are a flaneur like me and you just wish to wander around the city, choose a traditional local “simit” with sesame and warm “salep” with cinnamon on the go, and explore the hidden treasures of the area.

Kapani: With roots from Istanbul and Izmir and the aromas of spices and herbs, someone can’t do anything but love the market of Kapani (un kapan= flour market in Turkish). Its central entrance lies exactly in the middle of Aristotelous Square. It’s the perfect spot for affordable and unique souvenirs. How about a mix of Mediterranean herbs or a basket with local products? A great variety of fresh vegetables, cheese, fish and meat is also available in very low prices.

Egnatia Street: An avenue that starts at Dimokratias Square (Square of Republic) and ends up at the University of Macedonia. Apart from the known Kamara (arch) that hosts youthful shops and cafes, you can also discover hip bars that serve original cocktails and unique dishes inspired by Greek cuisine.

Ladadika: After so much strolling, a luscious meal before your afternoon siesta, is mandatory. Just five minutes walking from Aristotelous square, lies the ideal place for good food, beer or ouzo! Tip: Pay a visit to “Bakaliarakia by Aristos” with a secret recipe since 1910 and enjoy the Greek version of fish and chips. Bon Appétit!

The Coast of Thessaloniki: Late in the afternoon…time for strolling or cycle across the beautiful coast of the city. It takes about 7.000 steps to reach the Music Hall from the main port of Thessaloniki and believe me…every single one of them is worth the effort! Starting from “Apothikes”, walk across the busy coastal road to experience the youthful pulse of the city through its numerous cafes and bars. Visit the White Tower (with only a 3 euro entrance) to learn everything about the city’s history, from the dark ages of the Turkish Empire to the evolution of “rebetiko”.

The modern part of the coast was built 2 years ago and hosts five theme parks that conduct art exhibitions and various events. Enjoy some music by the numerous street musicians and buy handmade souvenirs. Look towards the horizon…the small touristic boats across Thermaikos gulf and the seagulls beg the travelers for a piece of bread!

The coastal road also offers cycling routes, although not organized well enough. Rent a bike right in front of Makedonia Palace hotel and go to Kalamaria and historic Karabournaki or “Kivernio” (initially the king’s country house, abandoned since early ‘90s). Tip: Right next to Kivernio, you can make a quick stop at the small hill to enjoy the colorful sunset and the two well-organized marinas, while seeing mount Olympus deep in the horizon.

It’s getting dark…Time to return to the city center.

Ano Poli/ Kastra: If you’re not a nature lover and you prefer enjoying the sunset at an urban landscape, then go to Kastra and see the sun setting while having the whole city at your feet. Kastra (Ano Poli) is easily accessible from the city center, with two shuttles (22,23 bus no) and it’s the ideal spot for both exploring and fun. Discover the historic “Eptapyryio” (def.seven towers) , broadly known as Yedi Kule, and look up for the event schedule at “Filakes” (def.former prison). Don’t forget to visit The Monastery of the Vlatades (World heritage monument by UNESCO). Tip: Make a quick stop at Tabya, a renovated cultural building, for some cold, homemade lemonade.

For Nature Lovers…

Thessaloniki is a place that literally combines mountain and sea. It is worth exploring both its urban and its rural landscape. One of the most beautiful places is mount Chortiatis. After two stops- via public shuttle- you will reach the foothills and the village that bears its name from the mount itself. Organized trails offer a great variety of routes on the hill. Τhanks to my hiking experience throughout the year, it’s safe to tell that you should visit Chortiatis during spring or winter. On rainy days, you can see small springs watering the tall trees and enjoy the smell of wet soil. Definitely a strong boost to your energy and mood.

After 1.30 hour of hiking, at 1000 meters high, deep into the woods, you will find the Refuge of Chortiatis, where Suzanna and George are welcoming you for a warm homemade meal and hot cup of herb tea, straight from the mount itself. Tip: The route is mainly upward and a bit risky, so it is strongly recommended that you wear non-slip shoes and a walking stick (mandatory in case of rainfall).

I hope you follow our recommendations next time you visit the city of Thessaloniki. But even if you are a local and your daily routine makes you forget that we are all passing, dedicate a weekend to rediscover the aromas and routes of your hometown. Be a ThessaloniCan!

Useful Links:
– Hop on a bus  
– Always know where you are
– I had a dream, I had a bike 
– For your hiking adventures

The students of the class “Travel Journalism” aka ThessaloniCans: Konstantinos Liratzis, Anna Theoharidou, Katerina Kataiftsi, Marianna Jullie, Giorgos Mitonas, Maria Athanasiadou, Metaxia Ipsilanti, Vaggelis Giasimakopoulos, Elpiniki Konstantinidou, Athena Zachou, Marina Sonous, Georgia Skodrani, Maria Kouzoufi, Marilena Vasileiadi. Special thanks to our teachers: Kleio Kenterelidou and Fani Galatsopoulou.

Also published at ThinkFree Magazine