Halki, also known as Heybeliada. A small, evergreen island that lies in Marmara sea and between Antigoni island (Burgazada) and Pringipos (Buyukada), as well as Maltepe cape. Such a small isle with such long history. A place where you can smell the salty air everywhere…from the wooden cottage houses from a past era, to the monastery of the Holy Trinity at the northern part of the island, one of the main sites built in the 11th century.
We took a long weekend due to Easter holidays and we decided to take the local ferry to the famous Princess islands and get away from the beautiful chaos of the city of Istanbul. Our starting point was the port of Beşiktaş where we enjoyed a hot cup of demlik çay – strong flavored Turkish tea. As soon as we arrived at the sunny port of Halki, we saw a bunch of taverns in line filled with spicy aromas and flavors, seagulls making long dives into the waters of Bosphorus to catch some fish, and a few people, mainly locals, strolling around… It was like a summer day!
We started walking up the hill to our hostel named L’isola, where we managed to book a room literally at the last moment and at a very good price due to low season. Only five minutes walking distance from the central port, we arrived at this little guesthouse with the cute garden with flowers and green grass and many, many cats. Koral, the owner of L’isola informed us that the building used to be the house of a Greek man that aspired to make the first Bauhaus building of the island but had to leave, along with many other Greeks who used to live in Turkey, back in the great persecution in 1964. After being in the hands of locals for many years, it was eventually bought by Koral who managed to preserve its original beauty and bring its past to life. Our room was cozy and clean with a great view to the sea of Marmara and the town of Halki.
Hiking to the Halki Seminary
The maximum altitude of the island reaches 448 feet, so it is quite easy for someone to hike its hills, no matter their age or their physical condition. The Halki Seminary has no students nowadays, but it is still preserved in a perfect condition thanks to the orthodox Patriarchate, that often organizes events for the locals as well as the visitors. If you manage to visit its premises, which I strongly recommend, you will see a small church of the Holy Trinity and a huge evergreen garden filled with lilacs, tulips and trees. Even if you don’t care about the religious part of this site, it is worth hiking the route to the seminary and enjoy the breathtaking view to the sea of Marmara, the aromas from the flowers and the pinetrees and the singing of the numerous birds. It is certainly an excursion that will satisfy the most rigorous hiker.
After spending quite some time enjoying the warmth of the sun and the sea breeze, we decided to explore the seaside hoping to find a beach to sunbathe and why not…swim! Unfortunately we were not very lucky. Although the island used to have amazing open beaches in the past, most of them were sold to private owners.
However, Halki is the ideal place for various activities, such as trekking, hiking, cycling, all enjoyed with safety since all cars and vehicles are prohibited. Another means of transportation are the horse carriages, mainly used as a tourist attraction. Luckily they are only a few, compared to the ones in the island of Pringipos. There have been many clashes between animal welfare organizations and the locals that profit from that…let’s say…tradition, since the living conditions of the poor horses, are not good.
Celebrating Easter all together
During winter time, the permanent residents are about 3.000, mainly Turkish but also some Greek – known as Romioi– that live on the island all year long or own a cottage house for the weekends and holidays. Easter is a weekend of celebrations for the few Greeks, Russians but for many Turkish locals as well. In opposition to what Mass Media promote, Turkish and Greeks live harmonically with each other here in Turkey, they share their ethics and traditions with mutual respect and love.
Ιn the night of the Resurrection, right before midnight, we all gathered at the little church of Saint George, located at the edge of a rocky hill. Only a few people, some Greek tourists, some Russians, Turkish and Romioi, all together. Isn’t that the purpose of these days after all? I still remember the whole moon that night combined with the flame of the candles. Throughout the night, I was talking with Mustafa, a permanent resident of the island, that visits the church of Saint George every single year to bring the holy light back home (a christian tradition). Like most Greeks, he also believes that this will bring him good luck and health.
“All of us, no matter of what religion, we all believe in the same God” he says.
Sunday Easter at the Halki Seminary
The next morning, around 9 o’clock, we started hiking to the Halki Seminary to listen to the church choir, sang in all languages as a tribute to unity and love. From Greek to English and from Arabic to Azeri and so on. After the choir, the local priest gave to all of us a red egg, decorated with tulle.
A huge feast was taking place in the garden of the seminary. Tables filled with tasty dishes, Greek folklore music and children running up and down playing with the farm animals. I really enjoyed the oven potatoes, the fresh green salad and the fruity red wine. The buffet was rich with local delicacies.
It was a weekend filled with aromas, nostalgic moments, wonderful people and connection with local traditions. The social and political upheaval in Turkey lately, has prevented many tourists from visiting this wonderful country, but reality stands far from the front pages.
Especially the Princess islands, they stand still in time, so close to the city of Istanbul but so distant at the same time. Ready to unfold a parallel world where people co- exist, respecting the past while creating their own present and future, day by day…
Μαρία Ελένη Βασιλειάδη 