tourism – Μαρία Ελένη Βασιλειάδη

A HOUSE IN ASFENDIOU VILLAGE

Forgotten in time but without losing its traditional flair, in contradiction to other villages on the island of Kos, Asfendiou lays on the Southeast side of the town, a place surrounded by olive trees, pine trees and firs, somewhere on mount Dikaios.

Wintertime is probably the best time of the year to explore the area; winter on the island is mild so the temperature is ideal for hiking to the top of the mount, plus the lack of tourists gives you the opportunity to enjoy the peaceful scenery and meet the locals. The locals will always greet you with a smile, without asking a lot of questions. In the beginning of our route, there was a small, picturesque house, visibly abandoned but still majestic. Its walls were still white, still fighting the mold. Its windows were wooden, with rusty bars and its door was narrow and quite old, trying to protect what was on the inside.

We got into the house and the feeling that this was actually an abandoned home, disappeared for a while. The sunglasses still laying on the wooden table, the family photos and the embroidered tablecloth, make you think that grandma is out to collect some olives and grandpa forgot his glasses when leaving. On my right side, I spotted more photos that unravel the close relationship of the family with the church. A big window in the center of the living room, sees to the big bedroom. The window right in the middle of the house, indicates that this also used to be a traditional kafenio (café). My friend told me that it used to be a cafe during the Italian occupation (1912-1943), before it was bought by Daniil Efstratios in 1946, as a proika (bride price) to his daughter, to become, a year later, the family home we have just discovered.

We continued to the central room, where the Efstratios family used to welcome their friends and family to spend the afternoon together, as the locals used to say “aposperizo”. There, a small entrance leads to the second part of the house that was built at a later time and was used as a kitchen.

In this kitchen, someone can find useful everyday items from the times it used to be a house, and also kitchen appliances from a later era, since many generations grew up there, until it was completely abandoned in 1993. A very characteristic detail, is the huge bed with some patchwork kilts and pillows, also featuring a wooden ladder leading to the attic.

Closing the old door behind us, to start hiking to Metohi, a nearby area, we realized that we just had a small taste of the past life in the village of Asfendiou. A former traditional café that met the prime era of the region (during 1850-1940) and a home that was abandoned by its owners that had to leave their fatherland to work as economic migrants, in the 60’s, in Germany, Canada, Australia and the US.

Who knows…maybe this place will relive its past glory with the help of the new generation. In any case, its multiple lives will remain untacked, no matter the social changes…

GRONINGEN: A JAZZ METROPOLIS

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The city of Groningen is the largest city of Northern Holland with 202.567 permanent residents. It is also considered to be the ideal “student city”, a place that invites you to get lost within its alleys, dance in jazz tunes and meet youngsters from all over the world. Its international flair and its vibrant nightlife made this place known as the Metropolis of the North!

Traveling across the Netherlands is quite easy. As a small country, most of its cities are within a short distance with each other (approximately 2 hours) and through various online pages, you can easily book your ticket for any destination you want. Once more, we neglected the fact that it was raining cats and dogs (better not expect a sunny day to travel!) and with a brief trip plan on a piece of paper, we hopped on the intercity train and within two hours and two trains, we reached our destination.

We reached the most central railway station of the city (there are three in total), called “Groningen” (the others are called “Groningen Europapark”, “Groningen Noord”) and at a first glance we saw many cars, some bus stops, a big canal with floating houses and in the background, some buildings of gothic architecture. As in most Dutch cities, cars are only allowed in certain areas, so we just happened to be around the city center. The safety of both cyclers and pedestrians comes always first.

Our first stop was the oldest University of the country, Groningen Rijksuniversiteit (aka RUG), found at one of the most central spots of the city (Broerstraat 5^th). The town is so small and well-organized that you don’t even need a map or GPS to reach the city center. After several minutes walking past a canal (one of the many crossing the city), the shopping street of Grote Markt that resembles Ermou Street in Athens or a smaller Kartner Strasse in Vienna, we spotted the impressive building of the RUG.

A few info

The RUG was founded in 1614 and initially provided solely religious education.
It was the first University to accept a woman as a student, Aletta Jacobs. As well as this, notorious figures like the nobel prize winners Heike Kamerlingh Onnes and Ben Feringa, have studied here, as well as Wim Duisenberg, the first President of the European Central Bank.
It is ranked as one the 100 best Universities worldwide.

A jazz city

If you wander around the area, you will notice that Groningen is filled with cafeterias and bars. Most of these places organize events with live music, mainly jazz. It is worth visiting Jazzcafe de Spieghel (addr.Peperstraat).

The students of the music academy Prince Claus Conservatoire, often conduct jazz jam sessions around the city (eg. Peter Pan jazz café, Café de Smederij), offering a great spectacle to both visitors and the locals. This is why Groningen is one of the most popular destinations for music lovers, especially in January when the annual music festival Eurosonic Noordeslag is held, hosting numerous bands and artists from around Europe and always closes with local musicians.

Nightlife

Although it is a small town, it has a very lively nightlife, mainly thanks to its students. Streets like Grote Markt, Vismarkt, Poelestraat and Peperstraat, burst with life during the evenings, even on weekdays, and in contrast with most northern European cities, its bars remain open until 5 in the morning! Not by chance at all that for two years in a roll (2005-2007), Groningen was voted as the Best City of Holland!

For the Cycling Enthusiasts

To top the award of Best City in Holland, here comes the title of Worldwide Bike City, with 57% of its population using their bikes as their main means of transport. The city offers a well-organized cycling network that makes it quite easy to explore the surroundings. However, if you wish to rent a car, there is a good road network around the city center.

360ο view

The city of Groningen is known as the Metropolis of the North and as the Martinistad (the town of Martini), thanks to its historical attraction, a tower called Martinitoren (Martini Tower). From the top of the tower you have a 360ο view of the whole city. Apart from a monument, it is Groningen’s trademark and thanks to its height, you can spot it from every corner of the city. So, in case you are lost and want to return to the city center, just look up, I am sure you will spot the tower’s top!

Tip: Right next to the Martini Tower, there is a cozy café that resembles a traditional Dutch house. Ideal for cold rainy days!

For the Travelers

The most popular and affordable way to travel across the Netherlands is by train (NS Trein). With only two hours route from Amsterdam, you have no excuse not visit Groningen. From there, you can also travel to other places as well using the international bus line (go to Hamburg, Berlin, Munich by Flixbus, Postbus).

It was already late in the evening and the rooftops were soaking wet by the constant showers. We had to return back to Enschede. After a quick stop at the station’s café for a hot cup of coffee and a snack, we took the first train to Overijse. Groningen is a small town that has a lot to offer. Filled with café and bars, friendly locals and an artistic flair, this city invites you to be a Groninger yourself!

SOLO HIKING MOUNT CHORTIATIS

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Mount Chortiatis with maximum altitude 1,201 metres, lies in the Eastern part of the city of Thessaloniki and offers an amazing natural scenery to those who wish to explore its trails and hike up to the top “Keraies” (means antenas), to enjoy the panoramic view of Thermaikos gulf, Chalkidiki, Soho, Nigrita and the lakes of Agios Vasilios and Volvi!

With marked trails, easy routes (level B) and within a short distance from the city centre, it is the ideal destination for families with children, hikers and downhill enthusiasts (marked trails for bikers are available). Τhe Refuge of Chortiatis is open mainly on weekends and it’s usually the final stop of most hikers. However, it is strongly recommended that you hike to the top, even if it’s a bit challenging for a beginner, since it’s the most beautiful part of the entire route. The vegetation becomes thicker and the trails more uphill; for those who wish to challenge their limits, nature offers its beauty to the maximum! In the end, you will be able to enjoy the amazing view from the highest spot in the whole region.

Let’s start from scratch. Although it was a weekday, we decided to go hike the mount. In this way we would have the whole place to ourselves, skipping the numerous visitors during the weekends. During the week, even the refuge is closed, so if you are planning to explore the area then, keep in mind that you will probably be on your own! In this case, it is wise that you invite a friend or two, especially if you don’t know the area very well and always have a GPS app downloaded on your cellphone. Even though the trails of the mount are not on the map, the application will help you calculate the distance from the highway around Chortiatis or at least through the village itself.

The route is a bit challenging from the beginning, with small and big rocks on your way, so you should wear non-slip shoes. After a short uphill hike, you will find the first trail of the mountain, which is full of evergreen bushes, like kermes oaks, creating an impenetrable vegetation around the trail. At 700m. height you also meet oak trees and cedar trees.

Spring season, before June is ideal for excursions in nature, since even in midday, the temperature is mild and the sun gives a pleasant warm feeling to the hikers. Although Chortiatis Mount offers a variety of marked routes, you should be careful which trail you choose, because some are quite challenging and longer and some easier and shorter. Unfortunately there are no signs whatsoever, so as a beginner, you will simply choose a route by chance and the more you hike the area, the more routes you will discover. Good news though, no matter which trail you choose, they all end up in valleys and small “oasis”, ideal for lunch breaks. This allows all hikers to rest in between, and hike the mountain at their own pace while enjoying the peaceful surroundings.

If you are a more experienced hiker, you can hike non-stop straight to the top, within two hours, but if you are not familiar with the surroundings, it is strongly recommended that you start your excursion early in the morning to have plenty of daylight during your route. Another reason you should start in the morning is that although the uphill route is relatively easy, the downhill route is a bit challenging. If you hike during the weekend, the refuge is always open, so there is always the choice to leave with other hikers or spend the night at one of their cozy rooms.The higher we hike, the thicker the vegetation becomes, with a variety of deciduous trees, like chestnut tree, ash tree, oak tree, as well as clinging plants and spring flowers like geranium, orchid etc.

Even during summer season, it can get quite chilly up there, so I suggest you take a waterproof jacket with you, because as the altitude gets higher, the temperatures drop dramatically.

The trail to the top is reached within a short walking distance from the Refuge and it ends up to the top “Keraies”; the trail is not marked since it is the only one leading to the top.

Tip: When you reach the central road leading to Keraies, you will meet a small crossroad. Go left.

This last part of our route happens to be the most beautiful (850-1200m.). You will meet a fairytale scenery, a forest of beech trees, cyclamen flowers, geraniums, lilies, violas, buttercups… It is worth mentioning that there is a big variety of mushrooms but not all of them are edible so be cautious. After 15-20 mins walking, at the final stage of our hiking, the road is more accessible and flat, the sun is hard and big and the view takes your breath away! The spot is ideal for picnic or sunbathing. If you happen to be a biker than you should know that even up there, you will find marked trails for cyclers.

A little throwback here. Back in the day, the area used to have rich fauna, like wolves and wild boars but to this day, their population has been dramatically reduced due to illegal hunting. If you respect the surrounding area and keep quiet, you might see squirrels, rabbits and plenty of lizards. Hunting is strictly prohibited and there are signs around the area clearly indicating that.

Tip: As I mentioned above, your return may be a bit challenging, so it is strongly recommended that you take a baton with you and as weird as it sounds, don’t forget to cut your toe nails; the continuous downhill route can be quite painful for your feet. Last but not least, always check the weather forecast beforehand.

If you’re keen on exploring this small treasure of Northern Greece and wish to enjoy the beautiful scenery through your own eyes, then follow these tips, grab your backpack and hike the evergreen trails of mount Chortiatis!

HIKING MOUNT PAGGAIO

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The mount of Paggaio lies between the cities of Kavala and Serres. With about 1,956 meters height, a great variety of deciduous and evergreen trees and small rivers, it is the ideal destination for nature enthusiasts at beginner or intermediate level (level B).

Spring is the best time of the year for outdoor activities; the winter snow loses the battle to small, colorful flowers and most days are sunny with ideal temperatures for hiking. Although this winter- especially in Northern Greece- was quite heavy and spring made a late appearance, the view from spot “Denna” at 1,150 meters as well as the top of the mountain, called “Mati” (def.eye) is definitely a highlight.

If your starting point is the city of Thessaloniki, you will need a two hour drive to reach the monastery of Oikosifinissa, located at the foothills of Paggaio. We started our route at 7 am along with the Trace Your Eco team that provided two buses for our trip. The monastery opened its doors in 450 B.C and it is located at 753 meters height. Apart from being a historical site, it also attracts tourists for religious purposes. Its presence in combination with the fog and the psalms from the 23 nuns, create a rather spooky scenery.

After a while, we started hiking towards the spot “Denna” and after a small break to enjoy the view, we would visit the village of Nikisiani. The overall route’s duration is about 5.30 hours, mainly upward and during this season, a bit challenging, due to small pieces of eyes and slippery leaves. In the beginning, someone can only see dry trees and small Anchusa flowers making their first appearance. But soon enough, evergreen tall trees and firs are all around, creating a scenery straight from Enid Blyton’s tales.

The team of hikers was advanced, walking with a fast pace. After only an hour, we had already reached spot “Denna” where we took a break for a quick snack while enjoying the snowy tops in the horizon and with a panoramic view to the village of Nikisiani.

This brief stop was long enough to help us regain the strength for more hiking. Our main goal was to explore the NorthEast part of mount Paggaio, and eventually reach the village of Nikisiani at 350 meters height. Someone would expect that walking downwards would be easier but the remains of ice and the thick layers of wet leaves, made our route a bit challenging and full of trips!

Tip: Don’t forget to wear strong hiking or non-slip shoes if you wish to reduce the level of difficulty. A thick tree branch could work as a hiking stick for more support.

Some areas require extreme caution, since most trails are very narrow. It is recommended that all hikers walk in a straight line for their own safety. Our downhill route lasted a bit longer than expected because of the aforementioned small challenges and around 14.00 o’clock, we arrived at the village of Nikisiani.

It’s not easy to describe this place with a single word, because it’s a mixture of folklore and modern. On the one hand, picturesque alleys with small houses featuring windows with pots of flowers and embroidered curtains and on the other hand, modern, luxurious buildings. In the streets you could see, expensive jeeps and youngsters conducting tricks with their motorbikes trying to impress us newbies, but you could also see horsemen and farmers.

The central square had only two, three taverns, a small hostel, closed shops and local people.

We chose a small tavern called “Spilia” (def.cave). Although the service was a bit slow, probably because they usually don’t expect so many people, they offered tasty and quality cuisine. After a filling meal, we started roaming the empty streets, observing the few locals doing their daily activities. An old farmer gave us a suspicious look while doing his gardening and an old lady, doing her laundry, nodded to us with a friendly smile.

Unfortunately, we had to return back to the busy city…We once again took the buses of Trace Your Eco for the trip back home. Most of us fell asleep in the bus, relaxed by the pure oxygen and the long hours of hiking. 19.30, the fields become stores and the birds’ singing is now covered by the noise of someone’s car, rushing to reach his destination…

JUST A FLANEUR IN AMSTERDAM

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Amsterdam, the cultural center of the Netherlands and the ideal place to be for many and for different reasons: picturesque alleys, interesting architecture (e.g Dutch Golden Age), international flair, legal marijuana, vibrant nightlife…and the list never ends!

You should stay for at least a week if you want to wander around the narrow alleys like a flâneur, cross its tiny bridges and discover all the hidden treasures, usually difficult to notice at a quick glance. This journal mentions only a few highlights…rain, wandering around, cheap but tasty lunch (don’t forget to try the traditional erwtensoep or snert, soup made out of peas and sausage), sightseeings, vivid corners and a variety of colorful images…

A loggia filled with old books and vinyls…
Those little discoveries that happen by accident are the most exciting sometimes. An old loggia, right in the heart of the city, houses a flea market of old books and vinyls. Although most books were written in Dutch, so there was not a big variety of choices for foreigners, it was one of the most unique experiences of my trip. A trumpet lies next to a Bob Dylan vinyl and right next to Edith Piaf and Bach; music knows no borders or eras. To the left, two male figures: one is rolling his cigar and enjoys his coffee using a glass of beer (!) and the other is hiding behind his newspaper. Both gave me the impression that they were, in fact, trying to avoid any visitors. This peaceful and quiet loggia, a parallel world in complete contrast to the city center bursting with people.

That embroidered sweater…

“Here comes the sun”! After a couple of hours of heavy rain that led me to the nearest second hand/ vintage shop (check out Vintage Shops Amsterdam) ,to buy a warm embroidered sweater, the sun made its debut. Sometimes rain covers the city with a veil of romance and sweet melancholy but without a doubt, the sun enhances the vibrant color palette of Amsterdam. Surrounded by the warmth of my new sweater, I enjoyed my hot cup of coffee right next to the Staalmeestersbrug bridge and a reddish-brown sleeping cat.

Grab a beer…

Many would say that after sunset, Amsterdam comes to life. I say that this city never sleeps. I wandered as much as I could around the central city market, but then I felt like exploring some distant hoods. One of my stops was the Heineken Experience museum, that used to be an actual brewery, but nowadays it offers interactive tours in the Heineken premises that lead to a tasting room.

Outside the museum, the city lights and the elegant vitro, set the mood for the upcoming holidays.

Not just a monument…

Christofer Wren once said that “Architecture aims at eternity” and that is exactly what I am thinking every time I see the impοsing Magna Plaza, the most well – known shopping center of the city, which also happens to be a monument of great importance and value. It also lies right behind the Royal Palace of Amsterdam. One thing you should check off your to-do list, is to drink a hot cup of coffee at the top floor of this neo-gothic building, at a cafeteria that offers spectacular views.

Even if you don’t wish to become part of the city, it is worth becoming a simple spectator of its bustling, bohemian life. Even for one day…

ISTANBUL, THE CITY WITH A THOUSAND FACES

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Istanbul; a metropolis full of contrasts that unites eastern with western culture. However, as it happens with many unions, not everything is perfect. Mass media keep on bombarding us with news that promote clashes and terror, giving a wrong impression about the daily life of the locals, but Istanbul will never seize to be the city with a thousand faces, an ideal destination throughout the year and especially during Christmas holidays. I assure you!

Every corner in this city, hides a unique story…Many stories actually, my mother’s memories who was born, raised and still lives in “Poli”. Unfortunately, it’s impossible for me to describe exactly how life was back in the 70’s, with the Armenians, Jews, Greeks and Turkish peacefully co-existing in a city that didn’t even have half of the population and having only a few shops where locals used to sell their goods. However, I can talk about modern Istanbul, that still cherishes its past, for the eldest to remember and the youngsters to learn. I’ve said enough; a picture says a thousand words, so I decided to grab my camera and capture moments, people and spots of the city, so that you can travel with me, through your screen.

Short Stories…

Ara Cafe: Probably my favorite choice when I visit Istanbul during winter time. An artistic café-bistro with the best jazz music selections and a small photo exhibition by its owner, the famous Turkish photographer Ara Güler. The visitors always see Ara sitting at a small table, talking with young people, although he is over 80 years old! Ideal choice for cold winter days. You should definitely try espresso macchiato or Indian tea with spices and milk!

(Tomtom Mahallesi Tosbağa Sokak No:2. Galatasaray)

Βig Chef’s/ City’s

City’s is a small, cozy mall- compared to the huge malls around the city- that not only offers a variety of retail shops with top brands but hosts a unique and affordable café-restaurant with a view to Bosphorus! It’s actually one of the few places that celebrates Christmas, you can listen to jazz Christmas songs and eat “kurabiye” shaped like a Christmas tree.

( Teşvikiye Cad., No:162.Nişantaşi, 34365 Şişli)

Κόκκινα (kokina)

No matter what time of the year you visit Istanbul, you will find seasonal plants and flowers to decorate your home or offer them to a good friend. Street florists sell the most common to the most unusual plants. During Christmas and New Year’s Eve, the streets are filled with mistletoe , locally known as “kokina” (means red in Greek), as “Romioi” used to call them back in the day and as the locals call them even to this day. You can hear the Turkish florists yell “Gelin, kokina!” (Come, kokina!).

Mabel Chocolaterie

We have all heard of “Mabel” but only a few know that the first shop of this company was founded by a Greek resident of Istanbul in 1947, a shop that is still open and now is one of the most historic spots of the city. During Christmas holidays they decorate its window with all kinds of chocolates, Christmas ornaments and chocolate “coins” (fluria)! If you happen to pass by the shop, it is worth visiting it, even to wander around the shop and admire the wonderful decorations!

(Valikonağı Caddesi 38/a, Nişantaşı)

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GREEK AGRITOURISM: THE DREAM OF A TRUE TRAVELER

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What exactly is Agritourism really? It is the absolute experience for every traveler who desires true connection with nature and the culture of a place; local cuisine, customs and traditions. Now you can become one with mother Earth and its people, in a few words, you now have the chance to return to a simpler lifestyle.

Due to its geophysics, its unlimited natural sources and its traditions, Greece should be the ideal tourist destination even during the winter. However, at the Environmental Journalism Conference of Aristotle University, it was mentioned that the statistics are still in extremely low levels and since the state’s support is practically non-existent, private owners eventually take the initiative. On the one hand this is really positive and beneficial for the entrepreneurs but on the other hand, during a harsh financial era for our country, we are not embracing our strongest asset: Greek Nature!

Be a farmer for one day!

The rural areas of Greece, offer a great variety of farming activities where you can literally enjoy the fruits of your labor!

Some of the options:

–Olive harvest and transfer of the fruits to a traditional oil press. Is there anything better than offering your own virgin oil to friends and family?

– Grape harvest and pressing for wine or tsipouro production!

– Seasonal fruits, vegetables, mushrooms, herb and nuts harvest

-Beekeeping, a pleasant and safe activity if you have the right equipment!

If you got excited and wish to learn more about this new trend, you can visit the official site of SEAGE (Hellenic Agrotourism Federations) or their facebook page, to keep yourself updated about the numerous activities that take place around Greece. Find the nearest spot and start your journey!

Bend it like…your grandma!

If farm life is not your cup of tea but you’re looking forward to tasting local delicacies, wear your apron and join one of the agriculture associations. You can attend cooking lessons and discover recipes straight from granny’s hands, like pies, marmalades, spoon sweets etc. And if you are an artistic soul, then you can simply join a Ceramic workshop or do handcrafts!

Find out more, here

Connect with Nature…

Ecotourism is closely linked to Agritourism. Back in 2002- the National Year of Ecotourism, the World Tourism Organization (UNWTO), used the term “ecotourism” for the first time, in order to describe the act of observing and appreciating nature as the main goal of a traveler and with activities that are friendly towards the environment and cultural heritage. Maybe this is the best opportunity to learn everything about the flora and fauna of our destination (eg.excursions at wetlands and national parks) and conduct various sports activities while breathing fresh air and enjoying the colors and sounds of Greek Nature (eg.trekking, hiking etc)

To conclude, I am quoting the words of the American author Sylvia Plath: “I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery- air, mountains, trees, people. I thought, “This is what it is to be happy!”

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